Path of the Gods, Amalfi Coast #Positano #amalfiCoast

Positano 

I had never heard of The Path of the Gods, or ‘Il Sentiero degli Dei’ which in hindsight is strange as I love to hike.   It turned out to be one of the most spectacular hikes I have even done taking me along the infamous Amalfi Coast, Italy. 

It only takes a few hours to hike from the small hill top village along the coast to Positano, I wish it was longer as I couldn’t get enough of the fabulous views along the coast that it gives.  Ideally, walkers should walk from Agerola to Nocelle, and not vice-versa; the route runs gently downhill from this direction, with magnificent views of the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri. 

  

I went at the end of October, on a gorgeous sunny day with a perfect temperature.  I don’t think it would have been nearly as enjoyable in the peak of the summer with crowds of  people and the heat of the summer sun beating down on you.  If you are there in the summer, I would definitely start as early as you can.

It must be said that this is more of a hike than a casual stroll along a coastal path.   I would advise hiking shoes/boots as there are some very uneven rocky areas, and large rocks to navigate around.  There is no fence of any sort on the edge so those with vertigo may need to think about that.  One of the group I was with decided not to do it for that reason.   The scenery changes from hills dotted with a few shrubs, heather and rosemary, past towering limestones mountains, colourful wildflowers, abandoned stone houses and through shaded forests. Farmers grow vines on terraces carved into the hillside, still using donkeys for transport along the narrow pathways.

If you are lucky enough to be in this wonderful area, do consider taking this hike. 

Rome - I'd forgotten how wonderful it is.

Piazza Navona

 

If you find yourself in Rome, try to avoid the major tourist attractions which are packed with people, and instead take a walk through the ancient streets.   It's amazing what treasures you can find along the way. 

I've been fortunate to visit Rome several times, but it's been a while and I had forgotten what an amazing city it is.   People complain that it's dirty and crowded, and maybe it is, but it still has so much charm and beauty, that for me it became irrelevant.  

I did want to see the Trevi Fountain again, so I walked from my hotel near Termini train station in that general direction.    I had all the time in the world, so as I walked and saw something of interest, I followed it making many turns and diversion.    I think this is the best way to discover a city.   There are so many great churches, lovely gardens, quaint restaurants and ancient ruins that you could spend a week just wandering.  

I especially enjoyed the Trastevere area just south of Vatican City.  It's a fun, bohemian area with centuries old buildings, artisan shops and restaurants. At the centre of this area is the Piazza di Santa Maria, with the Basilica dating back in parts to the 3rd century.   In the centre of the Piazza is a wonderful fountain, one of so many in the city where people gather to sit and watch the world go by.    

Another piazza that I really love is Piazza Navona, built on the site of a stadium dating back to the 1st century AD. On my last night there I chose the restaurant in front of the fountain and sat watching the people as I enjoyed a wonderful meal.  Of course, it's going to be a little more expensive to sit in a prime location, but it was so beautiful.  Sometimes when you travel you just have to say what the hell!  It's worth it.  

On the way back, I finally went to the Trevi Fountain hoping that on a rainy October night at 8pm it may be less busy - but it wasn't.  Maybe going at Midnight would be better?

Completely by accident on one of my diversions, I stumbled upon the home of Michelangelo’s statue of Moses housed in the San Pietro in Vincoli church.  What a masterpiece that is definitely going to see. 

The neighbourhood of Monti is another fun place to visit and enjoy the atmosphere, with both bohemian and classical elements, trattorias, win bars and vintage boutiques are hidden in the areas pizzas and streets drawing a mix of expats, students and locals.  

Even if you have a long layover in Rome it's worth going into the city.   I took the train from the airport in 30 minutes, which takes you to the centre of Rome.  

Trevi fountain

Micahelangelo's Moses

Trastevere