Machu Picchu

We spend the night in Aguas Calientes,  the strange little tourist town that has grown up at the bottom of Machu Picchu.   There is no road into the town,  only the train,   the only road is the one the buses zig zag up and down all day.    

I was so excited at the thought of a hot shower,  but alas,  I only had a cold one,  but at least I was clean.   

Our final morning is spent at Machu Picchu, probably the most astounding feat of engineering in all of ancient America. Temples,stairways, palaces and gabled stone dwellings are scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders.  It's quite amazing,  and our guide Lobo, again with such passion,  explains about the different areas.      

Then we have some free time before taking the train with the glass roof back for 1 1/2 hours to meet the bus,  which takes us back to Cusco. 

What an amazing 5 days.    I would highly recommend it,  but it is very challenging.   

The Inca Trail - Day 4

Up early today as everyone is up and ready for their coffee.    Unfortunately the weather has closed in and those beautiful view that we had are gone.  Quite foggy,  I am glad we were able to see them last night.  

After breakfast we gather to say goodbye to the porters as some of them will leave before lunch,  and tonight we sleep in the town.   It's very sad to see them go. 

We set off downhill for most of the morning stopping at some amazing terraced ruins.    Most of the trail today was easier,  you had time to appreciate the wonderful views,  or which there were many.  

We descend to Winay-Wayna ruins (2591m), a small Inca city which, like Machu Picchu, was abandoned for unknown reasons.

Then from Inti Punku - the Gate of the Sun - there is a sudden and fantastic view of the Lost City itself, Machu Picchu.  It is quite emotional for all of us.  Having been a self-contained unit for the last 4 days, in isolation almost,  it was quite a shock to encounter lots of tourists.   People who had taken the train there, while we had hiked for 4 days.  It somehow seemed wrong.   But as it was mid afternoon the ruins themselves were empty really which was lovely.   

Inca Trail - Day 3

Up very early today,  as it's so early we get to have 2 breakfasts,   but that's the only good news.   Rained all night and very foggy and rainy when we got up.   

Very hard 1 1/2 hour climb to Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman) Pass (4200m), to the valley of the Pacamayo river with its tropical vegetation.  The view above isn't what we saw as it was so cloudy,  foggy and rainy.   

We then cross the Runkuraqay Pass (3950m). Here the selva (jungle) becomes visible on the slopes of the mountains. Sayaqmarca ruins are on a rocky promontory. They command an imposing view and have only one means of access, a narrow granite stairway. Our trail goes through cloud forest with vines, exotic flowers (among them orchids) and luxuriant trees, then on through an Inca tunnel and along a ridge above the Urubamba river to the lovely Phuyupatamarca ruins (3579m).

The views of the Urubamba and the snow capped peaks of Veronica (5750m) and Salkantay make these ruins one of the most beautiful places on the trail.  An amazing place to camp,  gorgeous views.   

The Inca Trail - Day 2

Greeted early morning by a hot cup of coffee brought to my tent,  and a bowl of hot water to wash.    Quinoa porridge followed by an omlette for breakfast. 

After breakfast we are introduced to the 24 porters and then set off.    It's an easy start,  and very hot,  hotter than I expected,  the sun is strong at this elevation.   

Following the course of the Kusichaca river the trail leads to Huayllabamba,   a quiet village of Inca Origins and the last settlement on the route.

We stop for lunch and to rest in the sun for a short time before we set off again.   Mid afternoon it starts to rain.  We continue for another few hours climbing 1200 meters to reach our campsite at Llulluchapampa 3800m with stunning views of the snowy peaks around us.  Wonderful view back down the valley.  

The Inca Trail - Day 1

Leaving the hotel at 8.30 we drive 2 hours to Ollantaytambo where we stop for 30 minutes to look at an old Inca town.   The we drive to landmark 82km along a dirt road which looks quite dodgy in spots. 

Here we enter the check point to the Inca Trail.   The trail was first explored by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and opened for walkers in 1970. The famous ruins of Machu Picchu are not the only historical remains within the area: many other interesting sites are hidden in places which can only be reached on foot,and have scarcely been explored. Our trek starts by crossing the Urubamba river, then follow its rapids down the Sacred Valley.

The porters set up the tent for our lunch stop and serve mushroom soup and a hot meal.  There is hot water in buckets to wash our hands,  cool drinks and a wonderful view.  

We hike for another hour or so and set up camp under the ruins of Llactapata.   A gorgeous valley,  we soak our tire feet in an icy stream,  have hot tea and biscuits and short nap before dinner is served.   It was one of the groups birthday and somehow the chef made an amazing birthday cake,  iced,  with "happy birthday' written on it,  amazing as they only have little stoves to cook on.    

Bed by 8 o'clock as we have an early start. 

A visit to the market

R

I always find a visit to a market in a different country an experience for all the senses. The colours, the smells, different music playing in the back ground and this one was no exception.

Mercado San Pedro is the central market in Cusco is a hub of bustling vendors. From everything you can possible make from alpaca wool, to various strange meats which of course I avoided.

A wonderful experience and I would recommend anyone visiting a city in a different country to seek out the local market.

Coca Tea for altitude sickness

As soon as you check in at the hotel in Cusco they give you a cup of coca tea. This apparently helps with the affects of altitude which can vary greatly from person to person, and can be quite severe. Generally it's just a headache and maybe a light headedness. At 11,000 feet it can certainly be felt here.

I had heard of this tea, and expected something coffee like, thinking cocoa/coffee, who knows. I was wrong. When it came it was hot water with some large green leaves floating in it, and tasted somewhat like you had cooked vegetables and were now drinking the hot water. Not very nice. I said to a fellow tourist, I think the locals just do it as a joke and are laughing at us.

I'm not sure if it was the tea or it just affects some people, but I feel ok. The only time I notice it right now is climbing stairs, becoming breathless fast. It should take a few days to get used it in time for the 4 day hike to Machu Picchu.