A day off in Cusco

So I had a couple of days off to regroup after the Inca Trail and before the Amazon Jungle adventure so I decided to take a Chocolate making workshop in Cusco at Chocolate Museo.

It was a lovely venue over looking one of the squares in Cusco. The smell of chocolate wafted down the stairs.

We were educated on how the cocoa bean grows, where it likes to grow and how it is harvested. Then we were given some beans to see how they looked.

First they need to be roasted in a large open stone pot. As they heat up the smell of chocolate is stronger. Once they crackle like pop corn they are removed from the heat. We are given the roasted beans to peel off the outer shell. The remainder is put into a pestle and mortar where we grind them into a paste. Then they are put through another hand operated grinder to form a finer paste.

With this paste we are able to make 2 different types of Hot Chocolate that Peruvians frequently drink, one with water and spices, one with milk and cinnamon, both delicious.

The chocolate used to make eating chocolate is slightly different and has to have been mixed for 24 hours. They have some ready for us to use. We are given moulds and pour the liquid chocolate into them along with our choice of additives, almonds, salt, coffee beans etc etc. After an hour we have are very own chocolate to take home.

A very well organised, educational and fun way to spend a few hours.

I survived the Inca Trail

I survived the Inca Trail and have the t-shirt to prove it.

The trail was amazing, so much more that I ever imagined. I was always focused on the end, Machu Picchu. But we saw so many wonderful inca sites and views along the way that the whole adventure is something I will never forget.

We hiked in the hot sun, the rain, the little tiny bugs that savaged our legs and left nasty red bites. We struggled up steep passes, going so slowly you can't imagine, but it was so hard at altitude to breathe.

The porters and cook were amazing. They gave us breakfast, lunch tea and dinner in the dining tent, table laid each time. Then as we hiked off they dismantled it and rushed past us to the next spot and set it all up again. Even though they carried 25 kg, they laughed and smiled as they went.   They brought us a bowl of warm water morning and evening to our tents to wash, it was such a wonderful service. 

Our group was wonderful and we had so much fun even during the really tough parts of the trail.  The tour leader was amazing, always positive and so passionate about the history of each site. He would brief us at breakfast about the day ahead, and at dinner would give us details of what to expect the next day.

An amazing experience all round, and I will never forget the trail or the people.

I would highly recommend Explore and will definitely be travellinng with them again.

Machu Picchu

We spend the night in Aguas Calientes,  the strange little tourist town that has grown up at the bottom of Machu Picchu.   There is no road into the town,  only the train,   the only road is the one the buses zig zag up and down all day.    

I was so excited at the thought of a hot shower,  but alas,  I only had a cold one,  but at least I was clean.   

Our final morning is spent at Machu Picchu, probably the most astounding feat of engineering in all of ancient America. Temples,stairways, palaces and gabled stone dwellings are scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders.  It's quite amazing,  and our guide Lobo, again with such passion,  explains about the different areas.      

Then we have some free time before taking the train with the glass roof back for 1 1/2 hours to meet the bus,  which takes us back to Cusco. 

What an amazing 5 days.    I would highly recommend it,  but it is very challenging.   

The Inca Trail - Day 4

Up early today as everyone is up and ready for their coffee.    Unfortunately the weather has closed in and those beautiful view that we had are gone.  Quite foggy,  I am glad we were able to see them last night.  

After breakfast we gather to say goodbye to the porters as some of them will leave before lunch,  and tonight we sleep in the town.   It's very sad to see them go. 

We set off downhill for most of the morning stopping at some amazing terraced ruins.    Most of the trail today was easier,  you had time to appreciate the wonderful views,  or which there were many.  

We descend to Winay-Wayna ruins (2591m), a small Inca city which, like Machu Picchu, was abandoned for unknown reasons.

Then from Inti Punku - the Gate of the Sun - there is a sudden and fantastic view of the Lost City itself, Machu Picchu.  It is quite emotional for all of us.  Having been a self-contained unit for the last 4 days, in isolation almost,  it was quite a shock to encounter lots of tourists.   People who had taken the train there, while we had hiked for 4 days.  It somehow seemed wrong.   But as it was mid afternoon the ruins themselves were empty really which was lovely.   

Inca Trail - Day 3

Up very early today,  as it's so early we get to have 2 breakfasts,   but that's the only good news.   Rained all night and very foggy and rainy when we got up.   

Very hard 1 1/2 hour climb to Warmiwanusca (Dead Woman) Pass (4200m), to the valley of the Pacamayo river with its tropical vegetation.  The view above isn't what we saw as it was so cloudy,  foggy and rainy.   

We then cross the Runkuraqay Pass (3950m). Here the selva (jungle) becomes visible on the slopes of the mountains. Sayaqmarca ruins are on a rocky promontory. They command an imposing view and have only one means of access, a narrow granite stairway. Our trail goes through cloud forest with vines, exotic flowers (among them orchids) and luxuriant trees, then on through an Inca tunnel and along a ridge above the Urubamba river to the lovely Phuyupatamarca ruins (3579m).

The views of the Urubamba and the snow capped peaks of Veronica (5750m) and Salkantay make these ruins one of the most beautiful places on the trail.  An amazing place to camp,  gorgeous views.   

The Inca Trail - Day 2

Greeted early morning by a hot cup of coffee brought to my tent,  and a bowl of hot water to wash.    Quinoa porridge followed by an omlette for breakfast. 

After breakfast we are introduced to the 24 porters and then set off.    It's an easy start,  and very hot,  hotter than I expected,  the sun is strong at this elevation.   

Following the course of the Kusichaca river the trail leads to Huayllabamba,   a quiet village of Inca Origins and the last settlement on the route.

We stop for lunch and to rest in the sun for a short time before we set off again.   Mid afternoon it starts to rain.  We continue for another few hours climbing 1200 meters to reach our campsite at Llulluchapampa 3800m with stunning views of the snowy peaks around us.  Wonderful view back down the valley.  

The Inca Trail - Day 1

Leaving the hotel at 8.30 we drive 2 hours to Ollantaytambo where we stop for 30 minutes to look at an old Inca town.   The we drive to landmark 82km along a dirt road which looks quite dodgy in spots. 

Here we enter the check point to the Inca Trail.   The trail was first explored by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and opened for walkers in 1970. The famous ruins of Machu Picchu are not the only historical remains within the area: many other interesting sites are hidden in places which can only be reached on foot,and have scarcely been explored. Our trek starts by crossing the Urubamba river, then follow its rapids down the Sacred Valley.

The porters set up the tent for our lunch stop and serve mushroom soup and a hot meal.  There is hot water in buckets to wash our hands,  cool drinks and a wonderful view.  

We hike for another hour or so and set up camp under the ruins of Llactapata.   A gorgeous valley,  we soak our tire feet in an icy stream,  have hot tea and biscuits and short nap before dinner is served.   It was one of the groups birthday and somehow the chef made an amazing birthday cake,  iced,  with "happy birthday' written on it,  amazing as they only have little stoves to cook on.    

Bed by 8 o'clock as we have an early start.